Watercolorsails

Rancho Baiguate has beautiful tropical gardens

Ocean World Marina, Puerto Plata

Luperon TownColumbus established a settlement near LuperonRainy day at Salto (waterfall) Baiguate, Jarabacoa

Mike heads out to Luperon on a rented scooter

Approaching the Dominican Republic

Luperon anchorage

The day after Christmas, we left Turks and Caicos’ Providencia Island and headed across the banks (average around 15ft deep) to emerge into deep water not far from Ambergris Cay, on to Salt Cay and then out into the passage to Luperon, D.R.   Our trip took overnight.  Luperon, in the morning, with a few squalls, was an easy entrance, but then things got interesting working our way into the anchorage past reefs and shoals.  We definitely touched a few times, and just before grabbing the mooring ball offered by Papo, we ran aground again and he came and pulled us off with his panga.  One of those fellows who does anything for cruisers, sometimes loved and sometimes derided for charging more than the buyer wants to pay, he was helpful to us.  The mooring cost $5 for a week.  A great deal.  Checking into the country was wild with more officials than we could keep track of and more nickle and dime charges that eventually added  up to at least what we spent in T & C –would have been more sane to just ask for that amount and be done with it!  Ah well, it’s their country, we must remember!  Luperon Bay was packed with cruising boats, some with folks aboard and some waiting out the  hurricane season.  We actually did not stay a complete week–explored a bit, got some provisions and also went to a morning yoga class with some expat ladies…fun. The lagoon type anchorage began to get clostrophobic after awhile and we were eager to head out with a good short trip to Ocean World Marina, at the city of Puerto Plata further along the coast.  We settled in and met some folks, took a long hike along the coast, Mike rented a scooter and went back to Luperon–got more photos! and enjoyed a day away.  The big highlight of our Dominican Republic visit was a three day visit inland to Jarabacoa, in the mountains.  We took 2 buses and a van, arriving around 3 and got the advice of an expat at the bus station to go to Rancho Baiguate, which was quite a walk, but after all that bus riding, it felt great.  The place was lovely and promised many activities, however it rained on our day there.  We made the best of it, hiking to a waterfall with a couple of fellows who we enjoyed greatly, Paul, a trumpet player for the N.Y. Philharmonic and Alan, from Australia, just transfered by Estee Lauder to New York–in marketing.  Our hike through the fields of mystery veggies and strawberries, flowers grown for sale and wild jungle foliage and flowers, was fun, but wet!  Check out the waterfall… we didn’t jump into the river!  Some of the folks at the ranch went whitewater rafting and I think they got their trip before the water got super muddy!  We’re back at the boat this evening and plan to leave tomorrow morning for Puerto Rico.  Have a great weather window coming up with light winds and favorable directions.  We have really enjoyed meeting local people and find them friendly and helpful.  A fellow even led us all the way to the grocery store once we got lost!  The country is diverse with beaches, mountains, many national parks–it makes for a great place to explore—we just got started, but have so much yet to see.  Our trip to Puerto Rico will be a few days hopping along the coast and anchoring and then an overnighter across the Mona Passage…. hope it’s mellow!

Finisterre at anchor in Sapodilla Bay

Old carving on the hill

The Turks and Caicos Cays and Islands are also surrounded by large, shallow banks like the Bahamas.  They are largely made of limestone and coral.  We explored by car for 1 day, getting to the grocery store, eating out at Da Conch Shack (yum) and visiting the tourist beaches and duty free shops.  I completed shopping for Mike!  We also explored an old historical site, close to our anchorage at Sapodilla Bay where sailors and pirates of old carved their names and dates. 

Sapodilla Bay, Provo, Turks & Caicos

Window on the Hermitage, with plant--Cat Island, Bahamas

It’s Christmas Eve and the quiet swells are lapping up against the sides of the boat.  Mike is knocking about doing just one more project.  A great breakfast of french toast with cinnamon was had by all aboard.  It’s Christmas Eve and life here on Finisterre has slowed to a restful pace in honor of the holidays.  Perhaps a bit of snorkeling, or a swim, a time for reading and cooking and just hanging out.  Definitely the sunset watch is in order.  Mike will blow the conch in honor of the holiday sunset.  Sunsets are a delight here, although seeing the green flash has eluded us due to clouds along the horizon.  Colors are brilliant from peach to rusty red, often with a piece of rainbow mixed in. 

Dinner tomorrow will be a shared potluck with some new friends on the catamaran (room!) Guiding Light.  We are all headed for the Virgin Islands–they’ll probably be there before us, but we have lots to share.  Should be fun!  Our little Sapodilla Bay is off the beaten path in Turks and Caicos and we are not missing the crazy tourist beaches on Grace Bay one bit.  Yesterday Mike and I climbed up to see the carvings on the hill above the bay.  There are dates and names of visitors (perhaps sailors or pirates?) from the 1700′s & 1800′s.  Also enjoyed a great lunch out on the other side of the peninsula where you look out over a shallow sound–very turquoise! 

Wishing you all a peaceful and fun holiday season… Love, Kay & Mike

Crooked Island Light

I realized today how much we live in the present on the boat.  We watch the weather–seas, clouds, wind, the moon and tides.  So much more aware of our natural world than we are at home, I think, although these habits do spill over into our home life sometimes.  We watch the squalls blowing their way along the horizon.  Wind, perpetually E or NE –tide rising.  The front is with us, we’ll be moving out and on, as well.  We found our way east and south by going north from Georgetown.  It was the only way we could turn the corner to head south because the wind was constantly right on the nose!  We visited Cat Island, then Rum Cay, then Crooked Island, and finally arrived at Turks and Caicos. 

painting Father Jerome's Hermitage on Cat Island

looking out to sea, Stocking Island

This is a different style of cruising for us this year.  I’ll call it passage-making….getting somewhere by a certain time.  Although the joint decision-making and the element of adventure in going to new places is there, it is different than what we’ve done in the past.  The main issue is the weather and wind direction to get where we need to go to arrive in the Caribbean.  I hope we get somewhat in sync with others going the same way.  I think we will but it’s slow so far…mainly because so many cruisers go to the Bahamas to stay the whole winter. 

While in Georgetown, Mike and I took a very long hike on the ocean side of Stocking Island which borders the anchorage to the east.  We found some great shells and met an old codger with his dog–they live here yearround on their boat–alone.  He was very talkative.  He has few ammenities on board…his dog is his companion –a long-haired doxy, friendly, a great swimmer, who was once rescued swimming from his boat all the way to Georgetown–at least half a mile.  We had a lengthy conversation with this nice fellow.  He must store up all he wants to share and when he sees someone it all comes out.  Mike and I may be like that, too, after 2 or 3 more islands of just getting there, anchoring, taking a walk or dingy ride, sleeping and moving on.  

looking out to sea

We arrived yesterday and love this place but will leave for Rum Cay when the weather is conducive. On the search for fresh conch salad!

After a tasty grouper lunch!

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